Hallelujah Hellebores!

Hellebore are a spring garden must have. One of Victoria's favorite perennials, these beauties are deer-resistant, shade-tolerant plants that bloom March -April. The blooms often dry on the plant and remain well into the summer. And hellebore have nice foliage that add texture to the garden all season long.

(And we have them in stock!) Visit us on the corner of Rt. 213 and Cottekill Road in Rosendale, NY. Visit our website or call for directions (845) 658-9007.

"Sometimes referred to as 'Christmas Rose' or 'Lenten Rose', hellebores are the stars of the late winter/early spring garden. Plants generally bloom between December and March in cultivation, though some begin earlier, and others continue into April and May, particularly in gardens with colder spring climates. Nearly every garden has a spot for hellebores, and the plants will thrive in many different environments. Still, they remain unknown to many gardeners despite their toughness, beauty, hardiness, and wonderful habit of blooming in winter when most other plants remain dormant.

The majority of hellebores are deep rooted, stout plants. Acaulescent hybrids(many, but not all, involving Helleborus orientalis) are well-known for their thick, shiny green foliage. The large leaves may persist through winter, but not all plants are wintergreen in all climates. Once established, most hellebores make drought-tolerant plants, particularly if given some dappled shade in areas of long, hot and/or dry summers. Yet, despite the fact hellebores are almost invariably sold as shade plants, in most garden conditions they will perform their best if given some
sun. Many species grow wild in open meadows with only short grasses to shade the earth around them." -from hellebores.org

And they are also black walnut tolerant!

For Established Perenial Gardens and Lawns - Kill Weeds Before They Germinate - Organic Corn Gluten

Espoma Organic® Weed Preventer 9-0-0
Naturally Prevent Weeds!

Espoma Organic Weed Preventer helps prevent unsightly weeds from popping up in your lawn and garden while it nourishes the established plants and grass so that they become more resistant to heat, drought and other stress. And because the product is all natural, it is safe for your family, your pets, and the environment.

Weed preventer does not work on already sprouted weeds. It stops seedlings from germinating so weeds with already established roots systems will not be killed. Do not use in an area you plan to direct sow seeds.

See the fact sheet here.

* Prevents dandelions, crabgrass and other common weeds.
* Provides long lasting greening that won’t burn.
* Children and pets can play on lawn immediately after application.
* Made from 100% pure, granulated corn gluten meal.
* Apply twice per year: Early Spring and Fall. (25 lbs. covers 1,250 sq. ft.)

A Word on Genetically Engineered Seeds (We don't carry them)

Sow these peas directly into your garden soil, and fear not - they haven't been genetically altered.

The film The Future of Food, which I saw at the Woodstock Film Festival in 2004, was the first time I had even heard of genetically engineered food. Only after that did I read The Botany of Desire by the now well-known Michael Pollan. The book has now been turned into a film, and since then corporate farms and the dangers of monoculture in our food sources have gained a fair amount of attention.

At the center of the debate is the leader of GE (genetic engineering) and the company best known for it's weed killer Roundup and it's Roundup resistant strains of corn, soybeans and other crops, Monsanto. Sometimes portrayed as a corrupt corporate villain and other times as a technological savior helping farmers and fighting hunger - we'll let you make up your own mind. We're just providing a little information about seed companies owned by or independent of Monsanto:

Monsanto Purchases World’s Largest Vegetable Seed Company(from an artcle dated Jan. 24, 2005)

"Monsanto Company to Acquire Seminis, Inc., a Leading Vegetable and Fruit Seed Company.

The news of Monsanto’s agreement to purchase Seminis has received little attention from the media other than the financial pages and a few seed industry and anti-globalization web sites. But then again, why should it? How many consumers – of food or seed – have even heard of Seminis? And yet, as Seminis spinmeister Gary Koppenjan said, “If you've had a salad, you've had a Seminis product."

It is estimated that Seminis controls 40 percent of the U.S. vegetable seed market and 20 percent of the world market—supplying the genetics for 55 percent of the lettuce on U.S. supermarket shelves, 75 percent of the tomatoes, and 85 percent of the peppers, with strong holdings in beans, cucumbers, squash, melons, broccoli, cabbage, spinach and peas. The company’s biggest revenue source comes from tomato and peppers seeds, followed by cucumbers and beans."

"This is not the first time Seminis and Monsanto have done business. In 1997, Monsanto began to insert its Roundup resistant gene into one of Seminis’ lettuces, with an agreement to split the premium fifty-fifty. A 1999 Wall Street Journal article also noted that Seminis had received U.S. regulatory approval for selling disease-resistant genetically engineered squash and tomatoes with longer shelf lives and that the firm was working on using biotechnology to create sweeter peas and worm-proof cucumbers."

People have many different views on what genetically engineered food means for our health and environment. But if you do have concerns, you have no way of knowing whats been done to the DNA of the squash at the grocery store. Growers are not required to mark their produce "genetically modified."

Many people choose to grow their own veggies when they can, but if Monsanto also owns the majority of seed companies, what are your options?

Here is list of seed companies still independent from Monsanto. (Note that Botanical Interest and Renee's Seeds are on the list. Those are the seed brands we carry at Victoria Gardens.)

And here is a list of seed companies owned by Monsanto. Most of these companies, like Burpee are carried by the big box stores, and some are even labeled "organic." (Just because they are owned by Monsanto does not mean they are genetically modified, but as a consumer you'll never know, because they don't have to tell you.)

Direct sow these other non-GE cool weather crops directly into your garden:







We also carry seeds from The Hudson Valley Seed Library, a collection of local heirloom seeds.

Hudson Valley Seed Library Seeds

Okay, so it's rainy and cold and miserable. But that doesn't mean you can't prepare yourself for the beautiful weather on its way. Stop by and visit us at Victoria Gardens in Rosendale. Pick up seed starter, peat pots, and these beautiful Art Packs from the Hudson Valley Seed Library. Start your tomatoes, basil, and peppers inside while it rains, and when the sun and warmth return (hopefully by Thursday) you can direct sow salad greens, radishes, kale, and other early vegetables outside.




We are lucky enough have Hudson Valley Seed Library Seeds. And when I say "we" I mean both the we of Victoria Gardens, but also the "we" of all the gardeners in the Hudson Valley and around the world trying to protect heirloom varieties and food source diversity. (Seed libraries around the world are needed to fend off crop "plagues" of fungus and other diseases - listen to this very interesting story on NPR.)



Ken Greene of The Hudson Valley Seed Library on his blog (Garden Notes for Seedy Folks) offers gardeners his advice for direct seed sowing cool crop veggies. Here is his #1 tip: "Begin in the late winter or early spring–but not until the soil is ready. Many cool-weather crops, such as spinach, peas, arugula, and hardy salad greens, benefit from being sown as early as possible. Germination may take a bit longer than under warmer conditions, but they’ll be off and running early, which means the plant has the maximum amount of time to grow before summer heat sets in. However, it’s important to wait to sow until the soil has recovered from the winter freeze-up and has returned to a friable, arable state. You’re looking for the top several inches to be dry and crumbly enough that the soil doesn’t stick as you run a tool across the surface but instead falls away in small chunks or crumbles. Clay soils can sometimes take 1-2 weeks longer than sandy soils to become planting-ready. As you continue to add organic matter to your soil over the years, it will become lighter and lighter and more easily worked at the start of the season."



Tip #2: "Do a thorough, pre-emptive weeding. Direct sown crops produce tiny seedlings that need careful attention to flourish. Among their greatest needs is to be free from crowding by weeds. This is easily accomplished in the greenhouse, where seedlings can be started in a weed-free potting soil. But when direct sowing crops, gardeners must pay careful attention to weeds during the seedling’s early days. Get a head start by doing a thorough, pre-emptive weeding before sowing. Pay special attention to stolon-rooted grasses and other perennial weeds, as it will later become nearly impossible to remove these aggressive growers without disrupting tender young seedlings. If gardening in a new or neglected patch, consider sheet mulching or tilling and raking multiple times to kill lurking weeds.



Tip #3: "Amend the soil thoroughly. It’s much easier to create a fertile bed for your plants before planting seeds than after they have emerged. An unplanted bed can quickly be thoroughly hoed and raked multiple times to incorporate a big pile of compost; trying to do such a thorough job once the seedlings are up is nearly impossible. So don’t jump the gun: add compost, lime, soybean or alfalfa meal, rock phosphate, kelp, or any complete organic fertilizer before planting. Many plants benefit from later side-dressings as well, but they won’t make up for the first-round big boost to initial fertility accomplished by thoroughly incorporating amendments."



For Ken's top 10 tips for direct sowing visit The Hudson Valley Seed Library Website.



"Our Art Packs are each designed by a different artist from the greater New York region (this includes upstate New York, the Hudson Valley, the City, Northern New Jersey, and Connecticut). Each pack celebrates the beauty inherent in heirloom gardening." -Ken Greene

Tips for Pain Free Gardening

Bending and kneeling: what not to do: when you are weeding or you are going to lift something, don't just bend at the waist!

Bend your knees. It's worth repeating: bend your knees!

When lift something off the ground, get in the habit of squatting down, balancing your weight through your heels, engage your abdominal muscles, and use your thighs to push yourself up to a standing position.


If you weed from a standing position - bent over - still bend your knees. If you are yanking out stubborn weeds you could easily strain your back. Absorb some of the strain with your knees. Try resting one arm on your thigh with your knees bent as you weed from this position and then switch arms. Weed ambidextrously! After ten minutes stand up and try these stretches for your hands and arms:

Extend your right hand out in front of you, pull your fingers back toward you, and stretch through the palm. Do this on both sides. Then interlace your fingers in front of your body, reach up high, lean gently to the right then the left. Then with your fingers still interlaced, push out in front of you and round out your upper back.

If you can, clasp your hands behind your back and squeeze your shoulder blades together and down. Open up your chest. Take three deep breaths.

Drop your arms down to your sides. Make a fist with each hand and turn them so they face to the back and the side. Curl your fists upward and then backward in each position, rolling your fists and stretching your forearms.

Feel better?


If you kneel when you are weeding or digging with a hand spade in the garden, don't kneel on both knees. Keep one of your feet flat on the ground - this will give your back more stability.

There are lots of little gardening stools and seats available, but I've never been able to use one. I move around too much, a stool just gets in my way.

I do like a kneely-pad, especially when the ground is still damp.


While most gardeners tend to wear their old, ratty shoes while gardening, stability and support from the ground up is very important for moving properly and staying injury-free. Your feet should feel supported and your ankles shouldn't wobble. Make sure you have a comfortable pair of shoes with good arch support in them just for gardening.

(Do not garden in flip flops, please - I beg you.)

More Tips For Pain Free Gardening

On the first nice day many of us have the impulse to jump into our gardens and do everything we can: rake, cutback, transplant, mulch.. but if you hurt yourself on the first day, you may not get back out there all week or even all season. So go easy! Do a little the first day and then a little more the next. And try some of these stretches to help ward off injuries caused by manic-spring-gardening. (If you already have back problems or an injury, ask your doctor before adding these stretches to your pre-gardening routine.)

Take five or ten minutes before you tackle your spring-clean up and loosen up. The previous post covered some hamstring stretches and some shoulder and neck movements. Now, lets stretch our spine.

Spine stretch - Sit on the floor with your legs straight out and feet together. Contract your abdominal muscles and curl your shoulders forward (creating a C with your spine) and reach for your toes. You are not simply folding your body in half - no- you are arching your spine as you bend, separating your shoulder blades and stretching out the spaces in between your vertebrae. Roll back up, squeeze your shoulder blades together, and repeat six times.

The Saw - Still sitting on the floor with your legs straight out in front of you, spread your feet about shoulder-width apart. Sitting up very tall, raise your arms out to your sides, (perpendicular to the floor) and twist your body. Lean forward and reach your right hand to your left foot. "Saw" off your left foot's little toe with your right pinky-finger (but this is not a back and forth motion - just a Pilates misnomer). Very gently lean a little more forward with each exhale for three breaths, then sit up and untwist. Then twist to the other side and lean forward and "Saw" off the toes of your right foot. Be gentle, don't force or bounce, and remember to twist, THEN lean forward - sit up and THEN untwist. Repeat six times.

And let's not forget our feet. Stand on the bottom step of your stairs on the balls of your feet (Hold on to the railing or wall to keep your balance). Letting the back of the feet and heels droop over the edge. Gently allow your weight to stretch out the bottom of your feet and stretch your calves. Don't bounce.

While you are gardening, especially the first few days, try not to spend too much time in the same position. Pick a section. Cut back brown stalks. Rake that little area. Dump your tarp or pop-up weed bag. (Spray the clean section with deer-repellent!!!!! They'll eat anything this time of year!) Then start a new little section.

The point is - try not to spend more than ten minutes in one position - mix it up. The other benefit of doing small little sections is you won't load up your tarp or weed bag too heavy. Drag small loads to your compost pile. So it's a few more trips? Go easy, gentle... happy and pain-free.

Stretching For Pain Free Gardening

Spring has arrived! But after a winter curled up with books by the fire, a day of gardening can be followed by two or three days of pain. The next few posts will be dedicated to stretches that will help ward off injuries from gardening. (If you already have back problems, ask your doctor before adding these stretches to your pre-gardening routine.)

Here are two of my favorites. Many people don't realize that some back injuries can be caused from tightness in the hamstrings (the muscles that run up and down the backs of your thighs). With all the bending and squatting that gardening requires, stretching your hamstrings can help avoid sciatica pain (literally a pain in the butt).

Single leg stretch - Lie flat on the carpet or a yoga mat, if you have one. Lift your head off the floor (this helps alleviates strain by keeping your lower back firmly planted) and bring your right knee to your chest. Very gently, tug your knee closer twice, then switch legs and repeat, keeping your head up off the mat. Five or six times on each leg should loosen you up.


Single straight leg stretch - Still lying flat, after you've rested your neck for a few breaths, lift your head again, keep you legs straight, and pull your right leg towards you - holding on to where ever is comfortable: your thigh, your calf or your ankle. Tug the leg toward you twice very gently, and switch legs. Repeat five or six times on each leg.


Another habit to get into before you grab your gardening gloves (or even other times like before you sit down at your computer!) is roll your shoulders forward in a circular motion - lifting them up towards your ears and then pushing them down as far as they will go - squeezing your shoulder blades together and then spreading them apart in the motion. Then reverse and roll your shoulders backwards. Then move your head from side to side (gently!) to loosen up your neck and shoulders.

Do these stretches before and after raking, digging or weeding (A ten minute walk before and after will help also - warm up those muscles as well as loosen them).

And finish the whole day with a warm bath with 2 cups of Epsom salts. Old-fashioned, I know, but it works. Pain-free gardeners are happy gardeners.