Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Fall Color: Fothergilla
Fothergilla is one of Victoria’s favorite fall foliage shrubs – its leaves turn a striking multi-colored metallic.
Dwarf Fothergilla only grows one foot tall, which makes it a very practical size for most gardens. In spring it has creamy white bottlebrush-like flowers that combine particularly well with spring-blooming bulbs.
For more information on Fothergilla, here's a good article from the Brooklyn Botanic Garden.
Friday, August 27, 2010
Green Wall Plant Feature: Sempervivum 'Cobweb Buttons'
Sempervivum 'Cobweb Buttons'
(Sempervivums are also known as Hens and chicks.)
These 'Cobweb Buttons" are adorable. Super rounded rosettes of tightly packed, bright green leaves are thickly laced with fuzzy white webbing.
The rosettes develop by offsets into crowded, richly textured mats. In summer the older rosettes send out thick stalks bristling with stubby pointed leaves and topped with dense clusters of pinkish-white blooms. Rosettes die after flowering.
Like other succulents, sempervivums don’t ask for deep soils but prefer an infertile sharply drained growing medium. Wet winter conditions will kill them.
Plant them in sandy gravelly infertile soil in sunny rock gardens, stone troughs, or crevices. And as you can see the are very happy in our green wall. Offsets may be severed and rooted in sand to create a whole new plant.
Sun Exposure
Full Sun to part shade.
Soil Type
Normal
Sandy
Well drained
Soil pH
Neutral
Alkaline
Acid
Soil Moisture
Average
Dry
Care Level
Easy
Flower Color
Pink
Blooming Time
Early Summer
Foliage Color
Green with fuzzy white webbing.
Plant Uses & Characteristics
Accent: Good Texture/Form
Alpine & Rock
Attracts Butterflies
Containers
Deer Resistant
Drought Tolerant
Edging
Rabbit Resistant
Evergreen
Ground Cover
Flower Head Size
The rosettes can send up flowers 6 to 8" tall.
Height
2-5 cm
1-2 inches
Spread
20-30 cm
8-12 inches
Foot Traffic
Not recommended.
Growth Rate
Medium
Labels:
Green Roofs,
Green Wall: Vertical Planting
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Green Wall Plant Feature: Sempervivum 'Green Wheel'
Sempervivum 'Green Wheel'
Sempervivums are also known as Hens and chicks. ‘Green Wheel’ is especially vigorous and pretty. It has densely packed apple green leaves that form remarkably symmetrical rosettes.
In late spring to early summer older rosettes may send up a single flower stalk. These are topped with branched clusters of five-petaled pink blooms. Once a rosette flowers it will die, but offsets that have not bloomed will live.
A well-drained situation is the key to growing these succulents successfully. Most varieties of Sempervivum are very cold hardy and very low maintenance.
Sempervivums are ideal for sun drenched elevated rock gardens, but will not stand up to low desert summer heat.
Sun Exposure
Full Sun.
Soil Type
Normal
Sandy
Well drained
Soil pH
Neutral
Alkaline
Acid
Soil Moisture
Average
Dry
Care Level
Easy
Flower Color
Pink
Blooming Time
Early Summer
Foliage Color
Apple green
Plant Uses & Characteristics
Accent: Good Texture/Form
Alpine & Rock
Attracts Butterflies
Containers
Deer Resistant
Drought Tolerant
Edging
Rabbit Resistant
Evergreen
Ground Cover
Flower Head Size
The rosettes can send up flowers 6 to 8" tall.
Height
2-5 cm
1-2 inches
Spread
20-30 cm
8-12 inches
Foot Traffic
Not recommended.
Growth Rate
Medium
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Green Wall Plant Feature: Sedum 'Voodoo'
Sedum 'Voodoo'
Intense dark mahogany foliage provides a stunning contrast to the almost neon, luminous rosy-red flowers which appear June through August. A great little tough, drought tolerant succulent groundcover for hot, sunny locations. To only 4”-6” tall, its habit is sprawling but can be formed into a dense mat with a bit of stem pinching. Durable, carefree, & long-lived, it also makes a nice container subject.
Sun Exposure
Full Sun to part shade
Soil Type
Normal
Sandy
Well drained
Soil pH
Neutral
Alkaline
Acid
Soil Moisture
Average
Dry
Care Level
Easy
Flower Color
Red
Blooming Time
Early Summer
Foliage Color
Dark maroon (The darkest foliage of all sedum varieties.)
Plant Uses & Characteristics
Accent: Good Texture/Form
Alpine & Rock
Attracts Butterflies
Containers
Deer Resistant
Drought Tolerant
Edging
Rabbit Resistant
Evergreen
Ground Cover
Flower Head Size
Very Small
Height
10-18 cm
4-6 inches
Spread
20-30 cm
8-12 inches
Foot Traffic
Light
Growth Rate
Fast
Labels:
Green Roofs,
Green Wall: Vertical Planting
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Green Wall Plant Feature: Sedum a. 'Orange Ice'
Sedum a. 'Orange Ice'
A fantastic selection with green foliage during summer, which turns a unique orange color in fall and winter. Blooms in mid summer with many clear white flowers. It is an evergreen variety.
We choose 'Orange Ice' because it is very low growing, but in our Green wall, it is the slowest variety to fill in so far. It will be interesting to see how it compares with others over the long run.
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Soil Type
Normal
Sandy
Clay
Soil pH
Neutral
Alkaline
Acid
Soil Moisture
Average
Dry
Care Level
Easy
Flower Color
White
Blooming Time
Early Summer
Foliage Color
Bright green
Orange in fall and winter
Plant Uses & Characteristics
Accent: Good Texture/Form
Alpine & Rock
Attracts Butterflies
Containers
Deer Resistant
Drought Tolerant
Edging
Rabbit Resistant
Evergreen
Ground Cover
Flower Head Size
Very Small
Height
3-5 cm
1-2 inches
Spread
20-30 cm
8-12 inches
Foot Traffic
Light
Growth Rate
Slow
Labels:
Green Roofs,
Green Wall: Vertical Planting
Monday, August 23, 2010
Green Wall Plant feature: Sedum 'Dasyphyllum Major'
Sedum 'Dasyphyllum Major'
The creeping selections of Stonecrop are excellent groundcover plants, particularly for hot, dry sites. This species forms a low carpet of tiny round powdery blue-grey leaves, remaining evergreen in mild regions. Clusters of white star flowers appear in early summer.
A fast grower, this is best kept away from slower alpine plants. Takes on a mauve cast during cool weather. Mow or clip back in spring if desired. Has potential as a lawn substitute and for use on green roofs and green walls, as well as in rock walls, rock gardens and containers. May well prove to be hardy in Zone 4 or colder.
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Soil Type
Normal
Sandy
Clay
Soil pH
Neutral
Alkaline
Acid
Soil Moisture
Average
Dry
Care Level
Easy
Flower Color
White
Blooming Time
Early Summer
Foliage Color
Blue
Grey Green
Plant Uses & Characteristics
Accent: Good Texture/Form
Alpine & Rock
Attracts Butterflies
Containers
Deer Resistant
Drought Tolerant
Edging
Rabbit Resistant
Evergreen
Ground Cover
Flower Head Size
Very Small
Height
5-10 cm
2-4 inches
Spread
20-30 cm
8-12 inches
Foot Traffic
Light
Growth Rate
Medium
Labels:
Green Roofs,
Green Wall: Vertical Planting
Sunday, August 22, 2010
Growing Up: Vertical Planting
One lone Sempervivum is blooming on the new green wall. Can you imagine how cool it will be when they all bloom next year?! The wall will transform completely when the sedum flowers. Some of the sedum will flower white, others red, pink and yellow. It will transform again in cold weather, because the folliage of some of the sedum varieties we chose will turn red, orange or purple in the winter.
We planted the wall in a pattern (you can start to see it in the bottom picture)- a "V" in the top of the panel to the left of the door and the woman from our logo in the in the panel on the right (not pictured because that side is still growing in).
The best vantage point is from in the parking lot. With a little distance (and a little squinting) you can start to see what the picture will look like as the sedum fills in.
This week, leading up to the "Official Green Wall Unveiling" Party, we will post plant features of all the sedum and sempervivum varieties we used. Then on Sunday August 29th stop by for the party, refreshments, and see the wall for yourself. The festivities start at 2pm.
Can you see the the "V" below?
Friday, August 20, 2010
Green Wall: Sounds Good!
Plants and decibels are not usually two words that are used together in the same sentence. But Victoria Coyne from Victoria Gardens has been thinking about the two together a lot recently. It all started with a decorative vertical planting on the front of the garden shop, surrounding the front door.
“It started off simply as a beautiful feature,” says Victoria.
Her husband Wayne Wadell engineered the irrigated panels that could attach directly to the side of the building, but as they worked on the idea and completed the one sided panels, the couple started thinking of other applications, in particular, a freestanding panel that could be planted on both sides.
One of the many benefits of green walls and green roofs, besides diminishing runoff problems, insulation, and oxygen production is reducing noise pollution. Homeowners and businesses close to airports have experienced an impressive reduction of the noise levels and vibrations indoors by installing green roofs and green walls, but the problem of noise hardly needs to be a 747 to be troublesome and even damaging.
A passenger car traveling at 65 mph on a road 25 feet away is measured at 77 dB (decibels). Anyone who lives on Rt. 209 between Kingston and Stone Ridge experiences that sound level constantly. But let’s look at an even less extreme example: a central air conditioning unit. Even a newer “quieter” version can still produce a droning of 76 dB.
Sleep studies have shown that even low frequency noise such as humming ventilation at 69 dB or the sound of traffic through closed windows (35 dB) had an effect on subjects as they slept. “Subjects took longer time to fall asleep during exposure to low frequency ventilation noise while exposure to traffic noise induced greater irritation in the morning.” - Waye KP. Effects of low frequency noise on sleep. Noise Health 2004;6:87-91
Most of us hardly need a scientist to tell us that our sleep and moods are affected by the humming, droning, or buzzing noises that surround us even in the country. Few people think about how loud something like an air conditioner or heat pump will be - at least until the unit is installed and running in their backyard. With some units, the noise created by the condensing unit outside can even interfere with indoor peace and quiet.
Which brings us back to freestanding green wall panels, which absorb sound and vibration as opposed to simply reflecting them. According to greenrooftops.com, due to the soft plant level of green walls, insulation can be improved and sound reduced by 8 dB.
To enjoy the peace and quiet of your outdoor seating area and the beautiful feature of a vertical garden?
Sounds good!
Here's a list of the cold-hardy varieties of sedums and sempervivums we used:
Sedum 'Dasyphyllum Major' - Pictured above.
Sedum a. 'Orange Ice'
Sedum 'Voodoo'
Sempervivum Mix
Sedum hakonense Makino
Sedum s. 'Ruby Mantle'
Sedum 'Sexangulare'
Sempervivum Sunset
Sedum 'Red Carpet'
Sedum r. 'Angelina'
Sedum 'Tri-Color'
Sempervivum Green Wheel
Sempervivum Red Cobweb
Sedum pachyclados
Sedum 'Oreganum'
Sempervivum Cobweb Buttons *
* Cobweb buttons * Aren't they adorable?
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
Rug Order - now or in the spring? Let us know.
We are wondering if we should order rugs?
We will bring in new rugs and special order specific sizes and patterns, but the question is... should we re-order them now or in the spring?
Email us or call us if you need these nifty indoor/outdoor rugs before next spring. You can come in and look at the catalog and choose from the new designs and all the different sizes.
(845) 658-9007
We will bring in new rugs and special order specific sizes and patterns, but the question is... should we re-order them now or in the spring?
Email us or call us if you need these nifty indoor/outdoor rugs before next spring. You can come in and look at the catalog and choose from the new designs and all the different sizes.
(845) 658-9007
Friday, August 13, 2010
Agastache 'Blue Fortune' - Late Summer Bloomer
Agastache 'Blue Fortune' is a sturdy perennial with a very blue flower. at its peak in late summer, it is a welcome addition to any perennial border. (Aren't any late blooms welcome?) And while so many other plants got toasted in the dry heat of this summer, this agastache has thrived.
'Blue Fortune' produces spikes of powder-blue flowers held over large, deep green foliage. The plant stands approximately 36 inches tall with a mature width of 18 inches. Peak bloom occurs in midsummer when butterflies are plentiful.
Noteworthy characteristics: This variety is more tolerant of cold winters and wet soil than other species of Agastache.
Prefers full sun to light shade and dry to medium soil.
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Reminder: Divide Perennials
Now is a good time to divide perennials, but remember to keep any transplanted or new plants well watered.
DAYLILIES can be dug and divided as they complete their bloom cycle, right into fall, if needed.
PEONIES are best divided and transplanted in late August through September, if they need it. Remember with these fussy guys that “eyes” must not be buried more than an inch or two beneath the soil surface.
DON’T DEADHEAD FADED perennials, biennials and annuals if you want to collect seed (non-hybrids only) or plan to let some self-sow. Nicotiana, annual poppies, larkspur, clary sage and many others fall into this leave-alone group. So do plants with showy or bird-friendly seedheads, like coneflowers, some sedums, clematis and grasses.
TREES & SHRUBS
BE SURE TO WATER trees and shrubs now through hard frost, so that they enter dormancy in a well-hydrated state. Evergreens (needled ones and broadleaf types like rhododendron, too) are particularly vulnerable to desiccation and winterburn if not well watered before the cold and winds set in.
DON’T PANIC IF EVERGREENS start to show some browning or yellowing of needles this month and next. The oldest, innermost needles typically shed after a few years on the tree.
HOPEFULLY YOU STOPPED FEEDING woody plants in July or August. Promoting more soft growth after July-ish isn’t good; time for them to start moving toward the hardening-off phase of their cycle. No more eats till earliest spring.
ALWAYS BE on the lookout for dead, damaged, diseased wood in trees and shrubs and prune them out as discovered. Ditto with suckers and water sprouts. No hard pruning after late August, though; too late to risk encouraging regrowth.
Victoria Gardens’ landscaping crew can help if you don’t have the time. And we weed!
DAYLILIES can be dug and divided as they complete their bloom cycle, right into fall, if needed.
PEONIES are best divided and transplanted in late August through September, if they need it. Remember with these fussy guys that “eyes” must not be buried more than an inch or two beneath the soil surface.
DON’T DEADHEAD FADED perennials, biennials and annuals if you want to collect seed (non-hybrids only) or plan to let some self-sow. Nicotiana, annual poppies, larkspur, clary sage and many others fall into this leave-alone group. So do plants with showy or bird-friendly seedheads, like coneflowers, some sedums, clematis and grasses.
TREES & SHRUBS
BE SURE TO WATER trees and shrubs now through hard frost, so that they enter dormancy in a well-hydrated state. Evergreens (needled ones and broadleaf types like rhododendron, too) are particularly vulnerable to desiccation and winterburn if not well watered before the cold and winds set in.
DON’T PANIC IF EVERGREENS start to show some browning or yellowing of needles this month and next. The oldest, innermost needles typically shed after a few years on the tree.
HOPEFULLY YOU STOPPED FEEDING woody plants in July or August. Promoting more soft growth after July-ish isn’t good; time for them to start moving toward the hardening-off phase of their cycle. No more eats till earliest spring.
ALWAYS BE on the lookout for dead, damaged, diseased wood in trees and shrubs and prune them out as discovered. Ditto with suckers and water sprouts. No hard pruning after late August, though; too late to risk encouraging regrowth.
Victoria Gardens’ landscaping crew can help if you don’t have the time. And we weed!
Friday, August 6, 2010
Attract Butterflies to your Garden
Attract butterflies to your garden with late summer blooms -asclepias (butterfly weed), Buddlia (butterfly bush), Heliopsis, and Helenium.
Butterfly Garden Necessities:
*Plant native flowering plants - Dense "clusters" of small flowers such as zinnias, marigolds, tithonia, buddleia, milkweeds, verbenas and many mint family plants generally work well. Because many butterflies and native flowering plants have co-evolved over time and depend on each other for survival and reproduction, it is particularly important to install native flowering plants local to your geographic area. Native plants provide butterflies with the nectar or foliage they need as caterpillars and adults. Adult butterflies may accidentally mistake a non-native, invasive plant for a good egg-laying site, which could prevent the survival of its offspring. Grow your nectar-producing native plants in sunny areas that are protected from strong winds. The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center has lists of recommended native plants by region and state.
*Plant type and color is important – Adult butterflies are attracted to red, yellow, orange, pink and purple blossoms that are flat-topped or clustered, and have short flower tubes.
*Plant good nectar sources in the sun - Your key butterfly nectar source plants should receive full sun from mid-morning to mid-afternoon. Butterfly adults generally feed only in the sun. If sun is limited in your landscape, try adding butterfly nectar sources to the vegetable garden.
*Plant for continuous bloom - Butterflies need nectar throughout the adult phase of their life span. Try to plant so that when one plant stops blooming, another begins.
*Say no to insecticides! - Insecticides such as malathion, Sevin, and diazinon are marketed to kill insects. Don't use these materials in or near the butterfly garden or better, anywhere on your property. Even "benign" insecticides, such as Bacillus thuringiensis, are lethal to butterflies (while caterpillars).
*Feed butterfly caterpillars. - If you don't "grow" caterpillars, there will be no adults. Bringing caterpillar foods into your garden can greatly increase your chances of attracting unusual and uncommon butterflies, while giving you yet another reason to plant an increasing variety of native plants. In many cases, caterpillars of a species feed on only a very limited variety of plants. Most butterfly caterpillars never cause the leaf damage we associate with some moth caterpillars such as bagworms, tent caterpillars, or gypsy moths.
*Provide a place for butterflies to rest – Butterflies need sun for orientation and to warm their wings for flight. Place flat stones in your garden to provide space for butterflies to rest and bask in the sun.
* Give them a place for puddling – Butterflies often congregate on wet sand and mud to partake in "puddling," drinking water and extracting minerals from damp puddles. Place coarse sand in a shallow pan and then insert the pan in the soil of your habitat. Make sure to keep the sand moist.
Common Butterflies and the Plants they Eat
* Acmon Blue - buckwheat, lupines, milkvetch
* American Painted Lady - cudweed, everlast
* Baird's Swallowtail - dragon sagebrush
* Black Swallowtail - parsley, dill, fennel, Queen Anne’s lace, common rue
* Cabbage White - members of mustard family
* Coral Hairstreak - wild black cherry, American and chickasaw plum, black chokeberry
* Dun Skipper - sedges, grasses including purpletop
* Eastern Tiger Swallowtail - wild black cherry, ash, tulip tree, willow, sweetbay, basswood
* Giant Swallowtail - prickly ash, citrus, common rue, hoptree, gas plant, torchwood
* Gray Comma - gooseberry, azalea, elm
* Great Purple Hairstreak - mistletoe
* Gulf Fritillary - maypops, other passion vines
* Henry's Elfin - redbud, dahoon and yaupon hollies, maple-leaved viburnum, blueberries
* Monarch - milkweeds
* Painted Lady (Cosmopolite) - thistles, mallows, nievitas, yellow fiddleneck
* Pygmy Blue - saltbush, lamb's quarters, pigweed
* Red Admiral/White Admiral - wild cherries, black oaks, aspens, yellow and black birch
* Silver-spotted Skipper - locusts, wisteria, other legumes
* Spicebush Swallowtail - sassafras, spicebush
* Sulphurs - clover, peas, vetch, alfalfa, asters
* Variegated Fritillary - passion flower, maypop, violets, stonecrop, purslane
* Viceroy - willows, cottonwood, aspen
* Western Tailed Blue - vetches, milkvetches
* Western Tiger Swallowtail - willow, plum, alder, sycamore, hoptree, ash
* Woodland Skipper - grasses
* Zebra Swallowtail - pawpaw
Butterfly Garden Necessities:
*Plant native flowering plants - Dense "clusters" of small flowers such as zinnias, marigolds, tithonia, buddleia, milkweeds, verbenas and many mint family plants generally work well. Because many butterflies and native flowering plants have co-evolved over time and depend on each other for survival and reproduction, it is particularly important to install native flowering plants local to your geographic area. Native plants provide butterflies with the nectar or foliage they need as caterpillars and adults. Adult butterflies may accidentally mistake a non-native, invasive plant for a good egg-laying site, which could prevent the survival of its offspring. Grow your nectar-producing native plants in sunny areas that are protected from strong winds. The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center has lists of recommended native plants by region and state.
*Plant type and color is important – Adult butterflies are attracted to red, yellow, orange, pink and purple blossoms that are flat-topped or clustered, and have short flower tubes.
*Plant good nectar sources in the sun - Your key butterfly nectar source plants should receive full sun from mid-morning to mid-afternoon. Butterfly adults generally feed only in the sun. If sun is limited in your landscape, try adding butterfly nectar sources to the vegetable garden.
*Plant for continuous bloom - Butterflies need nectar throughout the adult phase of their life span. Try to plant so that when one plant stops blooming, another begins.
*Say no to insecticides! - Insecticides such as malathion, Sevin, and diazinon are marketed to kill insects. Don't use these materials in or near the butterfly garden or better, anywhere on your property. Even "benign" insecticides, such as Bacillus thuringiensis, are lethal to butterflies (while caterpillars).
*Feed butterfly caterpillars. - If you don't "grow" caterpillars, there will be no adults. Bringing caterpillar foods into your garden can greatly increase your chances of attracting unusual and uncommon butterflies, while giving you yet another reason to plant an increasing variety of native plants. In many cases, caterpillars of a species feed on only a very limited variety of plants. Most butterfly caterpillars never cause the leaf damage we associate with some moth caterpillars such as bagworms, tent caterpillars, or gypsy moths.
*Provide a place for butterflies to rest – Butterflies need sun for orientation and to warm their wings for flight. Place flat stones in your garden to provide space for butterflies to rest and bask in the sun.
* Give them a place for puddling – Butterflies often congregate on wet sand and mud to partake in "puddling," drinking water and extracting minerals from damp puddles. Place coarse sand in a shallow pan and then insert the pan in the soil of your habitat. Make sure to keep the sand moist.
Common Butterflies and the Plants they Eat
* Acmon Blue - buckwheat, lupines, milkvetch
* American Painted Lady - cudweed, everlast
* Baird's Swallowtail - dragon sagebrush
* Black Swallowtail - parsley, dill, fennel, Queen Anne’s lace, common rue
* Cabbage White - members of mustard family
* Coral Hairstreak - wild black cherry, American and chickasaw plum, black chokeberry
* Dun Skipper - sedges, grasses including purpletop
* Eastern Tiger Swallowtail - wild black cherry, ash, tulip tree, willow, sweetbay, basswood
* Giant Swallowtail - prickly ash, citrus, common rue, hoptree, gas plant, torchwood
* Gray Comma - gooseberry, azalea, elm
* Great Purple Hairstreak - mistletoe
* Gulf Fritillary - maypops, other passion vines
* Henry's Elfin - redbud, dahoon and yaupon hollies, maple-leaved viburnum, blueberries
* Monarch - milkweeds
* Painted Lady (Cosmopolite) - thistles, mallows, nievitas, yellow fiddleneck
* Pygmy Blue - saltbush, lamb's quarters, pigweed
* Red Admiral/White Admiral - wild cherries, black oaks, aspens, yellow and black birch
* Silver-spotted Skipper - locusts, wisteria, other legumes
* Spicebush Swallowtail - sassafras, spicebush
* Sulphurs - clover, peas, vetch, alfalfa, asters
* Variegated Fritillary - passion flower, maypop, violets, stonecrop, purslane
* Viceroy - willows, cottonwood, aspen
* Western Tailed Blue - vetches, milkvetches
* Western Tiger Swallowtail - willow, plum, alder, sycamore, hoptree, ash
* Woodland Skipper - grasses
* Zebra Swallowtail - pawpaw
Sunday, August 1, 2010
Reminder: Cut Back Spirea For 2nd Blooming
Now is the time to prune back spirea shrubs to promote a 2nd blooming- 'magic carpet' pictured above, is a dwarf spirea and one of Victoria's favorites. We use hedge shears and give the spirea shrub a "hair-cutt" - just trimming off an inch or so, or more to creat a compact shape. (The exception to this is the 'Bridal wreath' spirea, which blooms in early spring and should be cut back in the same way forsythias are cut back.)
You can also do nothing to the spirea - they may not bloom as fully again, but they will flower just fine next year. This is one plant that thrives on neglect.
"Spirea" Bushes: Meaning Behind the Name:
In English, we have dropped the first "a" in the Latin genus name, Spiraea, to arrive at "spirea." But the Latin name, too, has some history behind it. The name derives from the Greek, speiraira, which had been a plant that the Greeks used to make garlands. That name, in turn, is based on the Greek, speira (coil, twist, wreath), from which we derive the word "spiral" (one twists or "spirals" plant material around itself in order to make a garland). So if you've ever wondered if spireas have anything to do with spirals, the answer is yes (in terms of etymology) and no (in terms of how we use spirea bushes today).
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